www.jsamotors.com
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When buying a VDO boost Gauge from RRE, we
modify the hose connector so that it is easier to fit a vacuum hose to the
fitting that VDO has on the back of the gauge.
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To fit in a A-pillar pod, the studs and
threaded boost fitting must be shortened. Included in our kit is 6 feet of wiring and the necessary connectors to hook up the gauge back lighting. Also included is a tee fitting and pressure hose. |
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1. Tap the boost gauge hose into the hose
that runs from the intake manifold to the solenoid that controls the fuel
pressure regulator. This is the center solenoid on the driver’s side of
the firewall. Remove the double-ended hose connector on the bottom hose of
the solenoid and install the tee in its place. Some prefer connecting to the "P" fitting on the throttle body. Using this connection will not show vacuum on the gauge. The reasoning behind going to the P fitting is that by connecting to the fuel pressure regulator, you run the risk of loosing pressure to the regulator should something happen to the boost gauge hose. The solution is doing a nice job of connecting the hose and keeping it safe. By connecting to the regulator, you will be able to see if the regulator is getting pressure. Nothing showing on the gauge, means nothing getting to the regulator. With the hose connected to the P fitting, you could loose pressure to the regulator and never know. We like the connection shown, it is your choice. |
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2. Run the hose from the tee fitting through the firewall. You can poke it through either at the grommet for the speedo cable or the boot for the steering column. Use an Exacto knife and cut an X-shaped slot through the rubber. Push the hose through this hole. Be careful routing the hose under the dash so as not to interfere with the movement of the pedals or steering column.
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3. Remove the dash speaker panel for better access by taking out the one Phillips screw and then slide the panel towards you. |
| 4. To mount the gauge pod, mark the desired position first. Remove the A-pillar trim gently by un-snapping clips and Velcro. Drill a 3/8” diameter hole (it will be covered by the pod) for the hose and wires to pass through. Clean the plastic very well with alcohol so the double-sided tape will stick. Do not peel the tape off or stick the pod on until the entire installation is complete and tested. You may also use screws to help hold the pod on. | |
Light wiring: |
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1. Remove the carpeted panel on the left side of the center console. (Pop off the plastic covers and remove the Phillips screws.) You will notice a white, flat, rectangular plug towards the upper front of the silver metal dash support. |
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2. The green wire with a white stripe is
the positive wire for the dash lights. Tap into this wire for power. 3. The black wire with a yellow stripe with the green wire is the instrument light ground. The boost gauge light must be connected to these two wires to dim properly.
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1. Tap the boost gauge hose
into the hose that runs from the intake manifold to the solenoid that
controls the fuel pressure regulator. This is the center solenoid on the
driver’s side of the firewall. Remove the double-ended hose connector on
the bottom hose of the solenoid and install the tee in its place. Some prefer connecting to the "P" fitting on the throttle body. Using this connection will not show vacuum on the gauge. The reasoning behind going to the P fitting is that by connecting to the fuel pressure regulator, you run the risk of loosing pressure to the regulator should something happen to the boost gauge hose. The solution is doing a nice job of connecting the hose and keeping it safe. By connecting to the regulator, you will be able to see if the regulator is getting pressure. Nothing showing on the gauge, means nothing getting to the regulator. With the hose connected to the P fitting, you could loose pressure to the regulator and never know. We like the connection shown, it is your choice. |
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2. Run the hose from the tee fitting through the firewall through the boot for the steering column. Use an Exacto knife and cut an X-shaped slot through the rubber. Push the hose through this hole. Be careful routing the hose under the dash so as not to interfere with the movement of the pedals or steering column. |
| 4. To mount the gauge pod, mark the desired position first. Remove the A-pillar trim gently by un-snapping clips. Drill a 3/8” diameter hole (it will be covered by the pod) for the hose and wires to pass through. Clean the plastic very well with alcohol so the double-sided tape will stick. Do not peel the tape off or stick the pod on until the entire installation is complete and tested. You may also use screws to help hold the pod on. | |
Light Wiring |
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1. Remove the plastic panel on the left side of the center console. (Pop off the plastic covers and remove the Phillips screw and pop out one plastic clip.) Look for the wires running up towards the back of the cigarette lighter. |
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2. The green wire with a white
stripe is the positive wire for the dash lights. Tap into this wire for
power. 3. The black wire with a yellow stripe with the green wire is the instrument light ground. The boost gauge light must be connected to these two wires to dim properly.
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4. Route the wires carefully
so they don’t get caught in any moving parts under the dash. 5.Run the wires down the crack between the dash and the weather stripping from the gauge area down to under the dash. |
Information Source: www.roadraceengineering.com
